3 Ultra-Detailed Blog Articles - Chems

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ARTICLE 1: TECHNICAL GUIDE

Mastering Needle Depth in Microblading: The Secret to Perfect Results

Published on January 15, 2025 | Reading time: 8 minutes

Microblading is a precision art where every touch counts. Of all the technical parameters to master, needle depth remains the most critical element for achieving natural and lasting results. At Chems, we support artists daily in this quest for technical perfection.

Understanding Skin Anatomy

The three essential layers

The skin is made up of three distinct layers, each with a specific role in holding pigment:

The epidermis (0.05 to 0.1 mm thick)

• Surface layer in constant renewal
• Lifespan: 28 days
• Common mistake: Pigmenting too superficially in this area

The papillary dermis (0.1 to 0.3 mm deep)

• Ideal area for micropigmentation
• Moderate vascularization
• Slow cell renewal
• Goal: Reach this layer for optimal hold

The reticular dermis (beyond 0.3 mm)

• Risk of scarring
• Pigment diffusion ("blow-out" effect)
• To be avoided absolutely

Variations according to the areas of the face

The depth of penetration varies depending on the location:

• Eyebrows: 0.12 to 0.15 mm (thicker skin)
• Eyelids: 0.08 to 0.10 mm (very thin skin)
• Lips: 0.10 to 0.12 mm (delicate mucosa)

Chems tools for millimeter precision

PhiBrows Needle Selection

For beginners:

• Tool U18 : 0.18 mm needle, perfect for learning
• Easy depth control
• Reduced margin of error

For experts:

• Tool U16 : 0.16 mm needle, maximum precision
• Finer, more natural features
• Requires perfect mastery

Gripping technique

Optimal angle of attack:

• 45° for beginners : Easy control
• 30° for experts : Increased precision, finer lines

Pressure exerted:

• Light touch : The needle should "caress" the skin
• Resistance test : If the skin deforms, excessive pressure
• Tactile sensation : Light "click" with each stroke

Depth Test Protocol

Step 1: Test Area

Always start with an inconspicuous test area:

• Location : Tail of the eyebrow (less visible)
• Length : 2-3 mm maximum
• Objective : Validate the depth before the service

Step 2: Immediate Observation

Visual indicators:

• Too superficial : Pigment visible on the surface, "laid" appearance
• Correct depth : Embedded pigment, natural appearance
• Too deep : Bleeding, excessive inflammation

Skin reaction:

• Normal : Mild warming, moderate redness
• Alert : Heavy bleeding, severe pain

Step 3: Technical adjustment

If too superficial:

• Slightly increase the angle of attack
• Check the needle sharpness
• Adjust the pressure

If too deep:

• Reduce the pressure
• Decrease the angle of attack
• Slow down the movement

Factors influencing depth

Client's skin type

Mature skin (45+ years):

• Thinner epidermis
• Reduce depth by 10-15%
• Pay attention to wrinkled areas

Young skin (18-30 years old):

• Thicker epidermis
• Fast healing
• Applicable standard depth

Oily skin:

• Enlarged pores
• Risk of pigment diffusion
• More superficial technique recommended

Environmental conditions

Ambient humidity:

• Dry air : Skin less supple, adjust pressure
• High humidity : More elastic skin, enhanced control

Cabinet temperature:

• Ideal : 22-24°C for optimal comfort
• Too hot : Dilated pores, increased bleeding

Common Mistakes and Solutions

The "Blow-out" of the pigment

Cause: Penetration too deep into the reticular dermis

Signs:

• Thick and blurred lines
• Grayish color after healing
• Imprecise contours

Prevention:

• Continuing education on anatomy
• Using Calibrated Chems Tools
• Practice on synthetic skin

Premature pigment loss

Cause: Implantation too superficial

Signs:

• Fast fading (2-3 weeks)
• Excessive flaking
• Uneven result

Solution :

• Retouching with adjusted depth
• Additional technical training

Maintenance and upkeep of tools

Needle quality control

Visual inspection:

• Checking the sharpness
• Absence of deformation
• Perfect cleanliness

Penetration Test:

• Test on synthetic skin
• Validation of fluency
• Accuracy control

Renewal of equipment

Recommended frequency:

• Needles : Single use only
• Sleeves : Cleaning after each client
• Measuring compass : Systematic sterilization

Continuing Education at Chems

Technical masterclass

Our specialized training covers:

• In-depth anatomy of the skin
• Advanced Penetration Techniques
• Practical cases on models
• Skills certification

Personalized follow-up

• Video analysis of your technique
• Personalized improvement advice
• Update of protocols
• Unlimited technical support

Conclusion

Mastering needle depth in microblading is achieved through practice, training, and the use of quality tools. At Chems, we put our expertise to work for your artistic development.

Excellence is not an accident, it is the result of perfectly mastered technique.

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Next "Technical Improvement" training: February 15, 2025. Register at chems.fr/formations

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ARTICLE 2: TRENDS & INSPIRATIONS

Microblading 2025: The 7 Trends That Are Revolutionizing the Art of Eyebrows

Published on January 8, 2025 | Reading time: 10 minutes

The art of microblading is constantly evolving, driven by technical innovation and new aesthetic expectations. As 2025 begins, we're witnessing a true revolution in the approach to permanent eyebrow makeup. At Chems, we've identified the seven major trends that are redefining beauty standards.

1. The era of the "Chameleon Eyebrow"

The revolutionary concept

No more fixed eyebrows in a single shape. The 2025 trend favors eyebrows that adapt to the client's different looks. This approach requires a perfect mastery of mixed techniques.

Adapted PhiBrows technique:

• Structural base : Classic microblading for shape
• Adjustable density : Light shading to intensify according to the occasion
• Subtle Gradients : Shadow Effects for Versatility

Case study: Sarah, 32 years old

Request: Natural eyebrows for everyday wear, but can be intensified for evenings.

Chems Solution:

• Basic microblading with PhiBrows Brown 2 pigment
• External shading using the powder brows technique (30% intensity)
• Result: Natural, extendable eyebrows via classic makeup

Tools used:

• PhiBrows U16 Tool for Precision
• 3-Shader Cartridge for Gradients
• SUPER collection pigments for longevity

2. The return of personalized “Brow Mapping”

Beyond the classic rules

The golden number (1.618) remains the basis, but 2025 sees the emergence of a hyper-personalized mapping taking into account:

New analysis criteria:

• Natural facial asymmetry
• Usual facial expressions
• Lifestyle and profession
• Age and expected development

The Chems "Face Harmony" Method

Step 1: 360° morphological analysis

• Photos from 5 different angles
• Measurements with digital compass
• Analysis of individual proportions

Step 2: Simulation Test

• Temporary tracing with PhiMarker
• Motion validation (smile, frown)
• Adjustments according to preferences

Step 3: Final Mapping

• Detailed work plan
• Sequencing of treatment areas
• Customer validation before start

Technical innovations

Next generation PhiBrows compass:

• Measurements to the nearest 0.5 mm
• Adjustable angles according to body shape
• Shape memory for reproducibility

3. The “Living Color” pigment revolution

Colors that evolve naturally

The new PhiBrows SUPER 2025 pigments incorporate revolutionary technology: they adapt to the natural aging of the skin.

Technical innovation:

• Initial phase : Intense and precise color
• 6-month development : Adaptation to natural complexion
• 12-month stabilization : Perfect harmony with the skin tone

Extended palette 2025

New shades available at Chems:

Brown Evolution:

• Brown 1 Plus: Ash Blondes
• Brown 2 Dynamic: Modular browns
• Brown 3 Intense: Deep browns

Advanced Proofreaders:

• Red Neutralizer: Fix for old PMUs
• Cool Corrector: Corrects hot corners
• Skin Matcher: Adaptation to undertones

Application Guide

Selection according to phototype:

Phototype I-II (light skin):

• Base: Brown 1 Plus
• Retouching: Adding Cool Corrector (5%)

Phototype III-IV (dark skin):

• Base: Brown 2 Dynamic
• Intensification: Brown 3 Intense (external areas)

Phototype V-VI (dark skin):

• Base: Brown 3 Intense
• Customization: Mix with Red Neutralizer

4. The emergence of “Therapeutic Microblading”

Well-being and reconstruction

Microblading goes beyond aesthetics to become a tool for psychological and physical reconstruction.

Therapeutic applications:

Post-chemotherapy:

• Total eyebrow reconstruction
• Techniques adapted to fragile skin
• Integrated psychological support

Scars and accidents:

• Covering up the after-effects
• Restoration of facial symmetry
• Restored self-confidence

Alopecia areata:

• Simulation of natural hair
• Densification techniques
• Adapted long-term monitoring

Chems “Reconstruction” Protocol

Preliminary assessment:

• Medical consultation recommended
• Skin sensitivity analysis
• Personalized treatment plan

Adapted technique:

• Ultra-fine needles (U14 special)
• Certified hypoallergenic pigments
• Sessions spread over 6 months

Enhanced monitoring:

• Check-ups at 7, 21 and 45 days
• Adjustments according to healing
• Psychological support if necessary

5. The “Microblading + Skincare” merger

A holistic approach

2025 marks the integration of skin care into the microblading protocol.

Skin preparation (4 weeks before):

Week -4 to -3:

• Gentle exfoliation 2x/week
• Enhanced hydration
• Systematic sun protection

Week -2 to -1:

• Stopping active ingredients (retinol, AHA/BHA)
• Soothing masks
• Skin barrier preparation

D-Day:

• Perfectly prepared skin
• Optimal pigment receptivity
• Facilitated healing

Next-generation post-microblading care

Chems “After Care Pro” range:

PhiPatch New Formula:

• Strengthened membership
• Optimized permeability
• 48-hour comfort guaranteed

PhiHeal Regenerating Serum:

• Natural growth factors
• Accelerated healing
• Pigment preservation

Protective Cream 2025:

• Built-in SPF 30
• Natural antioxidants
• Invisible texture

6. “Male Microblading” is booming

An exploding market

+180% of male applicants in 2024. This trend will accelerate in 2025 with specific needs.

Specific male expectations:

Absolute naturalness:

• "Undone" effect
• Calibrated thickness
• No visible makeup

Enhanced durability:

• Intensive sport resistance
• Sweatproof clothing
• Minimal maintenance

Maximum discretion:

• Fast healing
• No social eviction
• Immediate result

Chems "Men's Brow" Adapted Technique

Specialized tools:

• Tool PhiBrows U20 (stronger lines)
• Sport resistant pigments
• Dedicated male mapping

Accelerated protocol:

• Single intensive session
• Healing 5 days
• Touch-up at 4 weeks

Specialized training:

• "Male Aesthetics" Module
• Male customer psychology
• Adapted communication techniques

7. Artificial intelligence at the service of design

Technological revolution

AI tools are transforming the eyebrow design phase.

Practical applications:

Real-time 3D simulation:

• Before/After Visualization
• Tests of different forms
• Instant customer validation

Predictive analysis:

• Evolution of aging
• Preventive adaptation
• Optimized durability

AI Personalization:

• Analysis of thousands of references
• Unique design proposal
• Continuous optimization

Chems x TechBeauty Partnership

“ChemsBrow Designer” application:

• 3D scan of the customer's face
• Morphological recognition AI
• Database of 50,000 eyebrows

Features:

• Instant simulation
• Comparing multiple options
• Export work plan

Training included:

• Mastery of digital tools
• Workflow integration
• Dedicated technical support

Training in 2025 trends

Masterclass "Future Brows"

3-day intensive program:

Day 1: Advanced Techniques

• Chameleon eyebrow
• Custom mapping
• New generation pigments

Day 2: Specialized Applications

• Therapeutic microblading
• Male aesthetics
• Skincare integration

Day 3: Digital tools

• AI and simulation
• Marketing 2025
• Business development

“Trend Master 2025” certification

• Validation of new technical skills
• Official PhiAcademy Recognition
• Competitive differentiation
• Premium pricing justified

Conclusion

2025 marks a turning point in the art of microblading. These seven trends are redefining standards and opening up new creative horizons. At Chems, we're supporting this evolution by providing the tools, techniques, and training you need to succeed.

The future belongs to artists who embrace innovation while maintaining technical excellence.