Maîtriser la profondeur d'aiguille en microblading : Le secret d'un résultat parfait

Mastering Needle Depth in Microblading: The Secret to Perfect Results

on Jul 10 2025
Table of Contents

    Understanding Skin Anatomy

    The three essential layers

    The skin is made up of three distinct layers, each with a specific role in holding pigment:

    The epidermis (0.05 to 0.1 mm thick)

    • Surface layer in constant renewal
    • Lifespan: 28 days
    • Common mistake: Pigmenting too superficially in this area

    The papillary dermis (0.1 to 0.3 mm deep)

    • Ideal area for micropigmentation
    • Moderate vascularization
    • Slow cell renewal
    • Goal: Reach this layer for optimal hold

    The reticular dermis (beyond 0.3 mm)

    • Risk of scarring
    • Pigment diffusion ("blow-out" effect)
    • To be avoided absolutely

    Variations according to the areas of the face

    The depth of penetration varies depending on the location:

    • Eyebrows: 0.12 to 0.15 mm (thicker skin)
    • Eyelids: 0.08 to 0.10 mm (very thin skin)
    • Lips: 0.10 to 0.12 mm (delicate mucosa)

    Chems tools for millimeter precision

    PhiBrows Needle Selection

    For beginners:

    • Tool U18 : 0.18 mm needle, perfect for learning
    • Easy depth control
    • Reduced margin of error

    For experts:

    • Tool U16 : 0.16 mm needle, maximum precision
    • Finer, more natural features
    • Requires perfect mastery

    Gripping technique

    Optimal angle of attack:

    • 45° for beginners : Easy control
    • 30° for experts : Increased precision, finer lines

    Pressure exerted:

    • Light touch : The needle should "caress" the skin
    • Resistance test : If the skin deforms, excessive pressure
    • Tactile sensation : Light "click" with each stroke

    Depth Test Protocol

    Step 1: Test Area

    Always start with an inconspicuous test area:

    • Location : Tail of the eyebrow (less visible)
    • Length : 2-3 mm maximum
    • Objective : Validate the depth before the service

    Step 2: Immediate Observation

    Visual indicators:

    • Too superficial : Pigment visible on the surface, "laid" appearance
    • Correct depth : Embedded pigment, natural appearance
    • Too deep : Bleeding, excessive inflammation

    Skin reaction:

    • Normal : Mild warming, moderate redness
    • Alert : Heavy bleeding, severe pain

    Step 3: Technical adjustment

    If too superficial:

    • Slightly increase the angle of attack
    • Check the needle sharpness
    • Adjust the pressure

    If too deep:

    • Reduce the pressure
    • Decrease the angle of attack
    • Slow down the movement

    Factors influencing depth

    Client's skin type

    Mature skin (45+ years):

    • Thinner epidermis
    • Reduce depth by 10-15%
    • Pay attention to wrinkled areas

    Young skin (18-30 years old):

    • Thicker epidermis
    • Fast healing
    • Applicable standard depth

    Oily skin:

    • Enlarged pores
    • Risk of pigment diffusion
    • More superficial technique recommended

    Environmental conditions

    Ambient humidity:

    • Dry air : Skin less supple, adjust pressure
    • High humidity : More elastic skin, enhanced control

    Cabinet temperature:

    • Ideal : 22-24°C for optimal comfort
    • Too hot : Dilated pores, increased bleeding

    Common Mistakes and Solutions

    The "Blow-out" of the pigment

    Cause: Penetration too deep into the reticular dermis

    Signs:

    • Thick and blurred lines
    • Grayish color after healing
    • Imprecise contours

    Prevention:

    • Continuing education on anatomy
    • Using Calibrated Chems Tools
    • Practice on synthetic skin

    Premature pigment loss

    Cause: Implantation too superficial

    Signs:

    • Fast fading (2-3 weeks)
    • Excessive flaking
    • Uneven result

    Solution :

    • Retouching with adjusted depth
    • Additional technical training

    Maintenance and upkeep of tools

    Needle quality control

    Visual inspection:

    • Checking the sharpness
    • Absence of deformation
    • Perfect cleanliness

    Penetration Test:

    • Test on synthetic skin
    • Validation of fluency
    • Accuracy control

    Equipment renewal

    Recommended frequency:

    • Needles : Single use only
    • Sleeves : Cleaning after each client
    • Measuring compass : Systematic sterilization

    Continuing Education at Chems

    Technical masterclass

    Our specialized training covers:

    • In-depth anatomy of the skin
    • Advanced Penetration Techniques
    • Practical cases on models
    • Skills certification

    Personalized follow-up

    • Video analysis of your technique
    • Personalized improvement advice
    • Update of protocols
    • Unlimited technical support

    Conclusion

    Mastering needle depth in microblading is achieved through practice, training, and the use of quality tools. At Chems, we put our expertise to work for your artistic development.

    Excellence is not an accident, it is the result of perfectly mastered technique.

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